As the title of this post implies, we tried our call to these islands and the capital, Stanley, however all our efforts were in vain.
East Falkland Island emerged through the overcast, dull and wet horizon early yesterday, the 28th.
The forecast had never been good, we had been in a north-easterly gale since the day before and predictions were that there would be no abatement for our call. Nevertheless, we would give it a ‘go’. We had company, the “Celebrity Eclipse” was also due in and I had been in contact with their Captain since the day before; organising who was going where in the anchorage and times of arrival among other matters. She had entered Port William, (the channel leading to the anchorage) an hour before us and she was ‘drifting’ in position off #2 anchorage, keeping to the north, this to allow us to pass south of her and go to #1 anchorage. It’s ‘tight’ and we needed all the room he could give us.
The “Eclipse” ahead, waiting and the “Scout”, a cargo ship, at anchor. Port officials in the fast launch.
Past the “Eclipse”, we were ‘crabbing’ sideways in the 40 knot winds as we abruptly swung head to wind to our anchor position. Starboard anchor, 7 shackles of chain, (approximately 600 feet, 200 m) laid out and holding. A fine adjustment of heading, this to try and give the port side some ‘shelter’, (I use the term loosely) 🙄 and tenders splashed in the water.
The ‘inner’ harbour, our tender passes through the headlands towards the town. A smaller ‘Expedition’ ship, with a shallow draft, anchored inside.
We send our first ashore, a 1½ mile trip, in rough seas towards the intended disembarkation floating dock. It takes our Security staff and safety Officer only, no guests. We wait for a report on conditions at the dock, can we? Can’t we? For what seemed an interminable time all was quiet and then the radio burst into life…There are waves breaking over the low dock, the Tender is having challenges staying alongside and for good measure, the Harbour Master deems it unsafe. Well, that settles that…….
Wind now gusting up to 47 knots (52 mph, 82 kph), we call our tender back and start recovering the others that have remained close to the ship, I make the regrettable announcement to guests. Our tenders safely stowed and our platform secure for sea, we start to weigh anchor. I speak to Captain Michael on the “Eclipse” and tell him of my intentions. he is going to cancel too, however he has guests ashore and he has to ‘retrieve’ them before he can get out… In the meantime, his tenders are gathered around him, “mother hen watching her chicks” 🙂
Anchor aweigh we turn to head out of Port William, the slow speed initially has us going sideways in the wind ‘like a train’; gathering speed, we pass as close to the “Eclipse” as is safe, all the while ramming up the revs to get her going. Thank goodness that the “Amsterdam” is an ‘ocean greyhound’, gathering speed fast and thus we manage to get her slowly up-wind away from that rocky lee shore and, after 20 minutes or so, we are away, into the open South Atlantic and setting a course for Antarctica.
I’m cheating here, delving into my old photos, I found what we should have experienced, some of Stanley in calmer times.
I write from 57° South, we cross the recognised Antarctic boundary of 60°S around 8 p.m. this evening and make landfall off King George Island tomorrow (30th) morning, into the Bransfield Strait and our scenic-cruising begins.
We have our first Albatross gliding with us, maritime folklore is that they are the souls of past sailors, wandering the oceans. With a wing-span of around 11 feet, they glide effortlessly in the Southern Oceans, a magnificent sight. It took 30 minutes to take this with a telephoto lens, it was only when I looked closely that I realised I had dust on the lens…. 🙁 It’s been taken care of now!
There are several types of Albatross, I’m no expert, however I believe this is a ‘Wandering’ breed.
Our communications down here are sporadic at best, so the likelihood of posting is slim; if I can; I will, however can’t promise……More later!
