620 miles to go to Durban. We are pitching in a large swell, rolling in from the Southern Ocean; I expect it to ease off in 24 hours or so. We saw our first ship since leaving Fremantle yesterday, however we can expect a few more soon, we intersect the Trade routes from the southern tip of Africa to the entrance of the Malacca Straits any time now.
We are all well although we have brought in ‘Social Distancing’ in various forms; moving tables around on the Lido deck, changing meal times for each department and a host of other items.
I know South Africa well, I sailed there frequently in my Cargo and Liner days, the nuances of the currents, particularly the Agulhas which, depending on which way one is travelling can either stop you dead, (if one is going north) or push you along like a cork out of a botte, (if one is going south). On our case, we’ll be pushed sideways, we have to cross it nearer Durban.
It is also notorious for rogue waves, when a strong southwest gale meets the south-going current, massive waves result on the 100 fathom line. The “Watarah”, a passenger ship, disappeared without trace in 1909 with 211 on board, she has never been found. In 1973, I was on a cargo ship, docked in Durban, when the “Bencruachan” came into the harbour, assisted by tugs, she had broken her back after hitting, (or being hit) by a rogue wave, she was lucky to survive.
With her bow almost snapped, a tank with latex saved her and her Crew
Due to the time-difference between ourselves and our West-coast offices, I have been up late into the night, communicating. I write this part of the post while at anchor off Durban, on the 5th, awaiting clearance to enter.
Nothing is easy, despite having no guests on board and my email now has 250 in the ‘inbox’, the majority of which concern our inward clearance, a mountain of paperwork required and quarantine requirements. We arrived here this morning at 6 a.m. and waited for a Doctor from Port Health to board, our first ‘visitor’ in a while, as we drifted off the port. We have 1 crew-member in isolation, (Tonsillitis), however it was necessary for him to be tested. We are also disembarking 5 of our South African crew and they too were tested.
Taken from the CCTV, the Port Health doctor, our doctor and crew member being ‘tested’
We took extreme precautions, during this exercise and afterwards too. Even going to the extreme of sanitising everything the doctor touched and that included the pilot ladder! One can’t be too careful. We are now waiting for the results, before we are given ‘practique’ to enter; could be a day, could be 3 days, we don’t know.
During my youth (and in happier times), I called here often on cargo ships, Union Castle liners and latterly on Container ships, many happy memories.
The beautiful liner, the “Windsor Castle”
Cargo liner “Good Hope Castle”, I was on her when she caught fire, spending some days in a lifeboat as a result. She was repaired and I sailed on her again, 3 years later
My first ship and my first call to Durban, the “Clan Sutherland”
That bulk-carrier I wrote about, the “King William”, on which I sailed half submerged through the “Roaring Forties”
I will write again in a few days, when I will, no doubt, have some more news. I leave you with a photo of our aft Lido deck in the South African sun and Social distancing to the fore. Stay safe and well, all of you.
