I haven’t had the best few days. The change of itinerary, involving the avoidance of the West African ports; the consequent letters from guests. While some of them have been sympathetic, others have not, quite the opposite in fact. I and my superiors took the decision with the well-being and health of all on board as our reason for doing so; however some were prepared to take their chances and made it quite clear how they felt.
Anyone with the responsibility of 1700 lives and $500m of ship, or for that matter, a pilot with his or her 500 passengers and a $50m aircraft, knows about the burden of responsibility. Often one is damned if you do and damned if you don’t and this is definitely one of those times. The problem with me, like many others, is that I take my responsibilities seriously and therefore take criticism personally; I am unable to remain above it all and lost sleep thinking about it.
Jamestown nestling in the valley
Anyway, onto lighter matters. We were at the island of St. Helena today, former ‘prison’ for Napoleon Bonaparte, an island in the middle of nowhere in the South Atlantic. Of volcanic origin, it has towering cliffs on its seaward sides, pierced by narrow valleys and it is in one of these that Jamestown lies. It is part of the British Overseas territory and thus flies the Union Jack from its flagpoles. Lying at anchor was the RMS St. Helena, (Royal Mail Ship in case you wonder). She calls at Ascension and St. Helena, delivering stores and mail, she also takes passengers to Cape Town and back. She calls every few weeks and it was just our luck that she has been here on our past 2 occasions, she in the prime anchorage and so I decided to ‘drift’ on engines and use the joystick, so we could be near the tender pier.
RMS St. Helena
The swell, deceptively low near the ship, caused unending challenges at the pier itself; the tenders ranging backward and forward as well as up and down. We were fortunate that every guest who went ashore did so without incident, in the main due to some great seamanship from the helmsmen and much assistance of our team of helping crew on the pier.
Having walked under a steep-sided cliff, past old warehouses and what appear to be barracks, one enters the town through what was once a narrow, fortified gate to reveal an inclined hill, either side of which are the buildings of the town. Their facades have not changed much in 150 years, just the names outside the doors.
Warehouses and barracks
Entrance to the town
On the south side of the valley is a towering hill and stretching from the town to the peak is the infamous ‘Jacob’s ladder’. Consisting of 669 steps, it was built by the Royal Engineers as a ‘quick’ access to a battery of cannons; it is a challenge for all ages and our intrepid guests were keen to ‘have a go’. If you suffer from vertigo, I don’t recommend it. I am told, (for I haven’t attempted it for 30 years), that coming down is worse than going up.
Karen I wandered in (again, because we were here last year), I taking photos and she, browsing. We were heading for the local store, which, amongst others, had a vast stock of Cadbury’s chocolate bars and their own pies; steak and kidney, steak and mutton. The aroma was almost sufficient, however we bought 10 of these, I had to keep the boys and girls on the Bridge happy. Laden with our booty, (including 8 large bars of chocolate) we headed back to the tender, the boarding of which was as adventurous as the disembarkation an hour previously.
The swell in the bay
A group of islanders, stopping for a chat
Us and the St. Helena
And so, at 5 p.m. we left St. Helena and yes, we are going to Ascension. We will arrive there at noon on the 10th. I have called at both these islands over the years, regularly when I was on Union-Castle ships and I know that both a susceptible to these big Atlantic swells. Landing at Ascension is difficult at the best of times; a high, stone pier with slippery steps and a swell have posed challenges every call, in fact I think I’m correct in writing that we have never managed it, however we will see.
Thank you for fixing the ‘comment problem’ I had, Captain. I can finally tell you how there is a “twinkling” in your writings that makes readers like myself very happy. By now, it is already known to you that not everybody is unhappy with your thinking 🙂 I’m also happy I’m not the only one taking off my “chapeau” for your judgements and skills. We live in a “me first” world, Captain! That’s what I’ve experienced in ‘my work’. We can’t win them ALL.
Onward I go with reading your blog !
Dear Captain Mercer,
I have been enjoying your BLOG of the World Voyage immensely. I love all your descriptions of the “Captain” part”. It is very educational.
I was so sorry that you have been criticiized for making a very sound decision along with the Seattle office. We here in Canada have been hearing about the virus problems in West Africa on a daily basis. If I were on the ship I wouldn’t have gone ashore in any of those ports.
I hope the whiners come to their senses and realize how lucky they are that you are IN CHARGE. Good on you.
Please have a very nice holiday when the time comes to enjoy those beautiful grandchildren.
Dear Captain Mercer,
We love your blog and view it daily. Thank you for sharing this amazing cruise. We cruise only with HAL and hope to cruise on your ship very soon. We want to support your decision to be safe and avoid sorry.
We wish you all the best,
Ferissa & Rafi Rosenbaum.
I just want to reinforce what the other comments have said. You considered the facts and the options and took the decision that is safest for everyone. People will whinge either way unfortunately, but as someone who has been cruising since the late 1970s I would NEVER question the decision of the Captain.
I hope to have the pleasure of sailing with you someday on a dam fine ship:).
Dear Captain Johnathan, firstly may I also agree with the comments in the three earlier messages. You as Master of the vessel took the 100 per cent correct decision to alter your itinerary in the health and safety interests of passengers and crew. Can you imagine the outcry if one of the passengers or crew had contracted the e-bola virus. You would have been lynched. Captain console yourself that there will always be whingers! Glad you were able to get passengers ashore in St Helena despite the swell. May the rest of your voyage be peaceful.
Best Regards
J.E.Dixon (Ted)
I guess what they say is true – you can’t fix stupid.
I am immensely proud of you and Holland America for thinking of folks health and well being first and foremost, not only for your passengers but also for all your crew members – you will never know what health issues or possible fatalities you avoided making this unpopular decision. I hope that thought will give you peace.
Dear Captain Jonathan,
We disembarked the Amsterdam in Sydney Feb. 11th. So, we have met you and know what a fine and fair man you are.
Please don’t fret or lose any sleep because of what other more selfish people thought, your duty is to look after the safety of all your passengers. I would not wish to harm ourselves, so, we support your decision.
We loved our sector of the cruise and are in the process of booking another.
We are following your cruise via your blog and we have friends who are keeping in touch with us,
Regards,
Rob and Chris Schilt.
Solid decision Captain. Job well done.
Dear Captain Mercer,
I sympathize with your plight with regard to the West African ports, and, speaking as a “4 – Star Mariner”, I want you to know that I think that you made the right decision.
The safety and well-being of your ship and all on board must always be first and foremost in any such decision.
I know that if I were on board the Amsterdam right now, I would not wish to go anywhere near those ports, and would support you decision whole-heartedly – – and would not hesitate to say so to my fellow passengers!
Please, do not loose any more sleep over it – – you made the right choice.
Good luck with Ascension Island!