Devils island is a place that lives in infamy. The 3 islands (Iles de Salut) are mostly overgrown, hiding this infamous French penal colony. Used from 1852 to 1953, the numbers of those incarcerated vary, however between 80,000 and 60,000 are quoted. Less than 5,000 survived.
We visited the Iles Royale, this is where some of the prison population were kept; along with the overseers, wardens and military. Solitary confinement was on the southernmost island, St. Josephe.
Although escape was foremost in the prisoner’s minds, it was virtually impossible because of the sharks that circled the island, waiting for the bodies of prisoners who died, these were thrown into the ocean. There is 1 cemetery on the island, however this contains few graves, many of the being children. The prisoners were treated like animals, the harshest of treatments and back-breaking work, just one of the tasks was building a road that was never to be used.
It may seem strange to take a Cruise ship to such a place, however a Grand World voyage takes one where one is educated of past history, no matter what the history may be and this is one of them.
Entry to the anchorage is made through very shallow water, during the latter stage there is less than 2 meters/6 feet under the keel. On my previous visit, the waters were calm, not so for this one and embarking/disembarking guests had to be done slowly and with assistance. Nevertheless, once ashore they all seemed to be enjoying themselves, even though steps were steep (and many), as were the ‘roads’. Here is our arrival time-lapse, (yes I remembered this time 😕 )
And now, the photographs……..
We departed the islands late in the afternoon and now we are off the coast of Brazil. We are making for the entrance of the Para River which is part of the Amazon Greater estuary. A 70 mile passage awaits us before we arrive off Icoarici, a small town, 45 minutes bus-ride to Belem. Smaller ships can sail further up-river to Belem itself, however we have too deep a draft to make it over the sandbanks and thus have to stop and tender guests ashore.
I am again following your blog because, again, friends and relatives are on board. My honey and I were on the Amsterdam with you in 2017 (northern route). I made YouTube movies of each port which I finished in 2019. Many have viewed it and now want to book a GWV! You’re welcome :>) . Re: Devil’s Island….. once more I watched the movie “Papillon” with Dustin Hoffman and Steve McQueen. Your post showed me the actual location and buildings. Thanks for that! Love the posts.
I’ve been there once with a cruise. When we arrived and the tenders were launched, they went up and down in such a way that it was impossible for passengers to board safely or dock at the island. The swell turned out to be too high. The captain had no other option than to cancel the call. When the captain had communicated the message to the passengers and the tenders were brought back on board, a tropical rainstorm broke out in which Devil’s Island totally disappeared.
The weather gods were clearly not in our favor that day. It is a pity that I was not able to see the island with my own eyes.
One place I really wanted to visit while working the maasdam Amazon cruise. Unfortunately I was on call that day.
I remember my first visit there exactly nine years ago on my first Antarctic Grand Voyage aboard the Prinsendam. Thank you for giving me the opportunity to experience this year’s Grand World with you. I had booked early but had to cancel, so I will be sailing with you in spirit only this time and remembering previous voyages on the Amsterdam with you and your wonderful crew.
An interesting stop to be sure – I remember in 2013 the heat and humidity and the contrast of the beauty against the history of the islands. I would agree a stop like this on a grand voyage is what makes it…a grand voyage.