Maputo lies on (coincidentally), Maputo Bay. The port is accessed through a tortuous, twisting route through an area with sandbanks and shallow water. Some 35 miles of channels which, until relatively recently, were unmarked, (by navigational aids) and involved slow speeds in the shallower sections. Now, because the port is accepting larger container ships, matters have slightly improved; a deep-water channel has been dredged with sufficient aids to make it easier for us.
We had a 5 a.m. pilot booked, an early arrival necessary because over 300 guests were disembarking here and going on Safari to Kenya; some will rejoin in Cape Town, while others not until Walvis Bay in Namibia. The early arrival was to ensure that they all managed to get through immigration procedures and still have time to catch their flights. At 3 a.m. the Bridge manning was supplemented with an additional senior officer, this to keep a careful watch on the transit through the outer section of the Bay. A change of voyage plan being necessary when we had to move out of the channel for an outbound Container ship with a deeper draught than ourselves.
4 in the morning and we ride the moon’s beam towards Maputo
Then, by 4:30 a.m. the Bridge was supplemented again, this time to ‘arrival’ manning. Not an auspicious start to the early morning, our temperamental, all-singing, all-dancing coffee machine had gone kaput, a pot of what purported to be coffee was the only substitute available.
An overview of the approach
A closer view, our intended track changing to allow a large, outbound container ship stay in the deeper channel
The pilot boarded when we were in the final, very narrow channel which is the last leg of the track to the port itself. Typically, he said very little and left it up to us, as you know by now, two thumbs up on this one 🙂
The last section of the channel
a radar shot of the channel and the last turn before docking
Tidal currents are tricky in the bay and we constantly have to adjust course for the ‘set’, the effect of the current on the ship. Finally, just after 6 a.m. we approach the dock and start docking procedures.
Our berth awaits while in the distance, a new bridge under construction
Passing fishing boats, the city in the background
Creeping past the boats and edging towards the dock
By 7:15 a.m. the Immigration officials have cleared the ship and our ‘Safari’ guests can load their luggage on the buses to the airport. Those just wanting to explore the city can do so, although they have had to pay a $75 ‘entry’ visa fee. Many guests chose not to pay this and stayed on board.
Our VIPs sallied forth to tour the environs as did we, (‘we’ being Karen, Rudi, our corporate chef and AnneMarie, one of our VIP guests). I had arranged a car to drive us around and in we hopped, cameras at the ready. 1st stop, the Railway station….
The Victorian facade of the railway station
A ‘ten wheeler’, used to ply between Mozambique and South Africa in the early 1900’s
Our guide tells us that there is over 65% unemployment in Mozambique; we try to work out that if everyone is trying to eek out a living by selling, who the heck’s buying? Then onto one of the markets; full of locals (and tourists), selling everything from vegetables, fish, clothing, bags and carvings.
Spotted outside, the Mozambican way of baby carrying
Then on to a fort, built by the Dutch, briefly occupied by the Brits, (who else 😆 ) and then the Portuguese, who spent the next 300 years there.
Cannon and a massive Aloe plant, barracks in the background
The outer wall seen here was once guarding the harbour; now the wall is 400m inland
Some dubious artillery shells stacked up against the wall, not sure if they’ve been deactivated??!!
Back to the transport and constantly inundated with hawkers, selling sunglasses, genuine (?) Mont Blanc pens and heaven knows what.
Where did we go next? Ah yes, a part of the city which tourists seldom see and certainly daren’t enter on foot, the slums of Maputo; what a sight. We stay in the vehicle, shooting photos through open windows. Children in bare feet, cement-block ‘houses’ and everyone trying to make a living, (or just stay alive).
Our travels continue to the coast, this time to the famous fish market. Surrounded by cafes, buyers of fish can take it to their choice of cafe and have it grilled. As we exited the vehicle, cafe ‘runners’ surrounded us, begging us to choose their particular venue. We were not intending to eat, our sole purpose to see the market and eat elsewhere. The prices were ridiculously cheap and Rudi bought enough seafood to feed an army for pennies,; we ate the lobster and prawns that night.
Karen with her lobster
Rudi and his new earrings, lobsters
Onto a seaside restaurant, frequented by the few Europeans we saw, mainly Embassy staff and families.
Karen’s meal, $30.
Finally, before returning to the ship, a visit to the best market in the city. Trees bedecked with bags, African tapestries and paintings waving gently in the breeze, wood carvings, metalwork and a photographers delight.
We are now heading south-west, paralleling the South African coast and arriving in Cape Town on the 3rd, staying for 3 days. Another social extravaganza this evening, the CEO’s cocktail parties and tomorrow, our President’s party. They disembark in Cape Town and we will be on our own again, it will seem ‘quiet’ after these past few days. I’ll try to take some photos for you tomorrow…….
