This port lies on the Namibian coast, a stone’s throw from the inhospitable Namib desert.  Apart from the call in 2014 and this one, my previous calls at this port had been on cargo ships, loading bags of fishmeal for Europe (and a ‘smelly’ cargo it was too).  One approaches from the South Atlantic, turning around a very long ‘spit’, at the north-end of which lies Pelican Point.  This coast is also known as the ‘Skeleton Coast’, the wrecks of scores of ships and the bones of whales litter the 1,000 or so miles of shoreline.  A famous wreck, a German ship, ran aground in fog in 1907 and has now made its way inland 500m (1600 feet) inland, sitting high and dry and oft photographed.  This is a by-the-by as we had no intention of being ‘oft photographed’ and we made our approach to the pilot boarding ground on a misty morning, typical of the area, as it is often ‘socked-in’ by fog, this caused by the nearby (cold) Benguela current. 

Pilot on board and his first question, “are you taking her in”?  Too right! So one of our 2nd officers conned her down the long, buoyed channel and into the harbour.  We were to berth between a fishing vessel and a visiting Brazilian warship, a frigate, the space was tight, 20 or so metres either end.  Swinging off the berth, I gently eased into the gap and made fast. 

I looked at my 2014 post and we visited Swakopmund at that time, a town 13 miles or so north of Walvis Bay; so this time we decided to wander locally.  A wander to the gate, past the cargo sheds and cargo ships, found us next to a group of market stalls.  Not really stalls as such, the vendors had laid their goods on blankets on the pavement, however it still looked attractive to potential buyers.  The gentlemen told us that they didn’t live in Walvis Bay, instead they came from outlying villages and slept the night on the ground, awaiting our arrival.  Much bargaining and yes, Karen did not leave empty-handed, (I should actually write that she left empty-handed, I?  Anything but, as I was the ‘porter’).

Leaving the larger items with the local stall, we left to find somewhere to eat and chose a restaurant on the waterfront, the ‘Raft’, delicious fresh oysters and fish, cool glass of South African wine.  Nearby, as it was a weekend, there were locals having a kayak competition, the smell of ‘braii’ (Barbecue) wafting across the area. 

Back again, along a typical street, past old whale vertebrae, used as a decoration.

Past the market once more, picking up our ‘warrior’ carvings and back to the ship, accompanied by numerous guests, all carrying ‘trophies’ after their bargaining.  We are now on our way to Luanda, Angola, we shall see what this ‘new’ port brings…..