This port lies on the Namibian coast, a stone’s throw from the inhospitable Namib desert. Apart from the call in 2014 and this one, my previous calls at this port had been on cargo ships, loading bags of fishmeal for Europe (and a ‘smelly’ cargo it was too). One approaches from the South Atlantic, turning around a very long ‘spit’, at the north-end of which lies Pelican Point. This coast is also known as the ‘Skeleton Coast’, the wrecks of scores of ships and the bones of whales litter the 1,000 or so miles of shoreline. A famous wreck, a German ship, ran aground in fog in 1907 and has now made its way inland 500m (1600 feet) inland, sitting high and dry and oft photographed. This is a by-the-by as we had no intention of being ‘oft photographed’ and we made our approach to the pilot boarding ground on a misty morning, typical of the area, as it is often ‘socked-in’ by fog, this caused by the nearby (cold) Benguela current.
Making the approach to the buoyed channel
Anchored vessels of all shapes and sizes, from drilling rigs to fishing boats.
Almost into the harbour
The fishing boat ahead, unloading its pre-packed fish
The desert is not far away.
Pilot on board and his first question, “are you taking her in”? Too right! So one of our 2nd officers conned her down the long, buoyed channel and into the harbour. We were to berth between a fishing vessel and a visiting Brazilian warship, a frigate, the space was tight, 20 or so metres either end. Swinging off the berth, I gently eased into the gap and made fast.
The approach to the port. The green triangles are the transponders of anchored vessels in the bay and others in th port
Down the buoyed channel
and a turn off the dock, going starboard side alongside
I looked at my 2014 post and we visited Swakopmund at that time, a town 13 miles or so north of Walvis Bay; so this time we decided to wander locally. A wander to the gate, past the cargo sheds and cargo ships, found us next to a group of market stalls. Not really stalls as such, the vendors had laid their goods on blankets on the pavement, however it still looked attractive to potential buyers. The gentlemen told us that they didn’t live in Walvis Bay, instead they came from outlying villages and slept the night on the ground, awaiting our arrival. Much bargaining and yes, Karen did not leave empty-handed, (I should actually write that she left empty-handed, I? Anything but, as I was the ‘porter’).
Decorated Ostrich eggs
I carried these back to the ship.
Leaving the larger items with the local stall, we left to find somewhere to eat and chose a restaurant on the waterfront, the ‘Raft’, delicious fresh oysters and fish, cool glass of South African wine. Nearby, as it was a weekend, there were locals having a kayak competition, the smell of ‘braii’ (Barbecue) wafting across the area.
The ‘Raft’
Kayaking competition
Thousands of Pelicans on distant sandbars
and one, obligingly closer, they are huge!
Back again, along a typical street, past old whale vertebrae, used as a decoration.
Past the market once more, picking up our ‘warrior’ carvings and back to the ship, accompanied by numerous guests, all carrying ‘trophies’ after their bargaining. We are now on our way to Luanda, Angola, we shall see what this ‘new’ port brings…..
Dear Captain Mercer,
On the night of April 27th I was sitting at our dining room table watching the waterspouts form off the starboard side of the ms Amsterdam . I unfortunately did not have my camera. You announced the phenomenon occurring and I was just wondering if you happened to get a photo/photos or a video of that happening. If so could you or would you be willing to share? I have tried many friends and they were either on the wrong side of the ship or it was raining so hard they could not capture a clear picture. You are so good with a camera that I thought I’d ask you. Thank you for your time.
Truly,
Mary
Hello Mary, unfortunately I was in the same situation, too dark, some drizzle on the windows, so I didn’t get any either.
Many of these articles to buy look great in their environment ,but at home how do you or others I wonder display their buys?? I guess as world travelers you have to have special rooms or cabinets. I know my travels aboard I try to get things I like but fit into my decorating. Well like they say” to each their own “just saying.
Hi Captain,
As always, I so enjoy your posts and commentary. Especially enjoy your visit to Sud Africa as I spent some time there in the early 90s. Absolutely loved the country and the people. Had a deep sense of being at home.
Question, whatever does Karen do with all her exotic purchases? Is there an international museum in your future? 😀
Just fascinating, thanks for your efforts to include us. I’ll bet you are thinking ahead to the open sea across the Atlantic and you have had such a busy time in Africa and still more ports of call.
All best, Charlotte
Not my favorite port. We were not taken to a shopping area. Enjoyed seeing the birds.
I hate to see this trip come to an end. I have enjoyed so much reading your blog. I am an acquaintance of two passengers…Dave and Christine Gee….his nephew is married to a great friend of mine.
Thanks for the wonderful pictures and writings!
Loved the Pelicans and the photos of the local activities. The market folks sure make a huge effort just get to get here and set up their wares. I enjoyed the map with your explanation of the green markers. What do the red markers mean?? Safe travels on to the next port!!
I am enjoying your posts very much. I relive my cruises in 3014 and 16 when I visited these ports. I am looking forward to Angolia having never been there
Barbara Davis
Are all harbor pilots, like air traffic controllers, required to know English?
Yes, they are, English is international language of the sea too.
Jonathan,
I think your previous visit was April 12 & 13, 2013 on the Amsterdam, because Fred and I were with you. Hope you are enjoying calm seas. We both enjoy reading your blog.
Best regards,
Ken and Fred