620 miles to go to Durban. We are pitching in a large swell, rolling in from the Southern Ocean; I expect it to ease off in 24 hours or so. We saw our first ship since leaving Fremantle yesterday, however we can expect a few more soon, we intersect the Trade routes from the southern tip of Africa to the entrance of the Malacca Straits any time now.
We are all well although we have brought in ‘Social Distancing’ in various forms; moving tables around on the Lido deck, changing meal times for each department and a host of other items.
I know South Africa well, I sailed there frequently in my Cargo and Liner days, the nuances of the currents, particularly the Agulhas which, depending on which way one is travelling can either stop you dead, (if one is going north) or push you along like a cork out of a botte, (if one is going south). On our case, we’ll be pushed sideways, we have to cross it nearer Durban.
It is also notorious for rogue waves, when a strong southwest gale meets the south-going current, massive waves result on the 100 fathom line. The “Watarah”, a passenger ship, disappeared without trace in 1909 with 211 on board, she has never been found. In 1973, I was on a cargo ship, docked in Durban, when the “Bencruachan” came into the harbour, assisted by tugs, she had broken her back after hitting, (or being hit) by a rogue wave, she was lucky to survive.
With her bow almost snapped, a tank with latex saved her and her Crew
Due to the time-difference between ourselves and our West-coast offices, I have been up late into the night, communicating. I write this part of the post while at anchor off Durban, on the 5th, awaiting clearance to enter.
Nothing is easy, despite having no guests on board and my email now has 250 in the ‘inbox’, the majority of which concern our inward clearance, a mountain of paperwork required and quarantine requirements. We arrived here this morning at 6 a.m. and waited for a Doctor from Port Health to board, our first ‘visitor’ in a while, as we drifted off the port. We have 1 crew-member in isolation, (Tonsillitis), however it was necessary for him to be tested. We are also disembarking 5 of our South African crew and they too were tested.
Taken from the CCTV, the Port Health doctor, our doctor and crew member being ‘tested’
We took extreme precautions, during this exercise and afterwards too. Even going to the extreme of sanitising everything the doctor touched and that included the pilot ladder! One can’t be too careful. We are now waiting for the results, before we are given ‘practique’ to enter; could be a day, could be 3 days, we don’t know.
During my youth (and in happier times), I called here often on cargo ships, Union Castle liners and latterly on Container ships, many happy memories.
The beautiful liner, the “Windsor Castle”
Cargo liner “Good Hope Castle”, I was on her when she caught fire, spending some days in a lifeboat as a result. She was repaired and I sailed on her again, 3 years later
My first ship and my first call to Durban, the “Clan Sutherland”
That bulk-carrier I wrote about, the “King William”, on which I sailed half submerged through the “Roaring Forties”
I will write again in a few days, when I will, no doubt, have some more news. I leave you with a photo of our aft Lido deck in the South African sun and Social distancing to the fore. Stay safe and well, all of you.
Hello Captain,
I sense a bit of reminiscing on your part. I understand! But I would recommend not to submit to it too much.
Our minds continue to conduct this background task of filtering out the tasteful memories and keeping the good ones. Maybe why our old memories are so golden.
I believe that somewhere soon in the world we will find a pharmaceutical to abate this nightmarish scourge happening now. Then, we will be able to touch each other and again you will have a full passenger roster.
I very much look forward to this!
Thank you again for the splendid round the world cruise, 2019.
Tom Pavelko
Silicon Valley, California
We can only imagine what a journey this has been for you and the crew. Our prayers and hugs go out to all of you. May you have fair winds and following seas . . . and arrive safe and healthy at your destination. The Amsterdam is fortunate to have you for it’s Captain!
Stay safe, Captain Jonathan! The ship is in great hands with you. We were supposed to be on that cruise. Is K still with you?
good to get your news and that you got through to swells of the Indian Ocean.
talk about an armchair traveler, I have not left my property where I am fortunate to have a dog and a garden during the past month.
here in new jersey we are about to see a cresting surge of infections so i will continue to eat out of my freezer section and hope thatyou are allowed to dock swiftly when you get to Florida
God speed
Sounds like this is a rough area. Is this the best route to get back to Fl?
Looks like the crew can have some nice areas for down time. Sort of a Minnie vacation for some.
Nice to reminisce and share with us.
Who would have thought your retirement would end this way another thing to remember and talk about.
Continue to stay safe all of you and stay healthy
Captain Jonathan: Thank you for keeping us informed on what is happening to you and your precious crew on the long journey home to Ft. Laud. Just to let you know Zaandam and Rotterdam were still in Fl. Laud. port today Sunday at 2 pm. I would also like to thank you for making the decision of having everybody getting off in Fremantle as we didn’t know of the danger we were in until after we got home and hearing about the closing of all countries borders, etc. It took lots of hours to make the trip but we are now safe and healthy at home. Sorry we couldn’t say goodbye to you and Karen but, maybe we will see one another when we come to get our luggage at the Ft. Laud. port. Stay healthy and safe and say hello to the crew.
Dear Captain, thank you for continuing with your blog; as one of the passengers (I gave you that magnet for the trip) that disembarked in Fremantle, I appreciate it. We passengers have been keeping in touch via Facebook and we are also in contact with a number of your “precious” crew. We love ALL the crew on the Amsterdam; you are our extended family and we wish you well. With any luck, by the time you arrive in Ft. Lauderdale, the worst of this pandemic will be subsiding and you won’t have any problems getting in. I know that the Amsterdam is the healthiest ship on the ocean right now! #HALstrong
Linda R.
Thank you, Jonathan, for this latest update, waiting to dock in Durban! We miss being on the ship so, therefore, really appreciate keeping up with you on board! Keep up the good work!! Jan and Dick
Thanks for the update, Captain. It is good to hear all is well. Best of luck to the tonsillitis patient. We look forward to reading more posts from your unique journey, and hope that by the time you reach Florida after a pleasant crossing, the authorities will allow you to dock in Fort Lauderdale and you can take a hard-earned rest! If you can find a way to make your entire blog available for download, it would be a treasury of stories and cruise planning resources that would benefit many.
Great to hear from you Captain & that you are all safe and well.
As you may know that there are still a few cruise ships here in Australia with some refuelling to leave for their home ports soon.
At least you are almost half way towards home.
Looking forward to more of your adventure… if you can call it that.
Regards
Dear Captain
400 years ago your colleague on the V.O.C. Amsterdam together with Fredrik Houtman V.O.C. Dordrecht were also 80 km west of Geraldton W.A. Where you were involved with the helicopter incident.
390 years ago at the 4 th June 1629 the VOC Batavia was shipwrecked at the Houtman Albrolhos Islands nearby.
Thanks to the “blog” : “Ongeluckige Voyage van’t Schip Batavia” we can read today the history of how the VOC Zaandam collected the survivors from the Houtman reef.
See Francisco Pelsaerts journal.
Keeping your blog on the internet will give the future followers of your blog a fantastic historical impression of the handling of the virus year of 2020. Thank you for your contribution.
No helicopter birds in 1619 so Pelsaert had to row/sail in his longboat to Djakarta (Batavia) in 33 days to meet the VOC Zaandam for the rescue voyage for the survivors on the reef 17 September 1629.
It may take you 35 days to meet the MS Zaandam in Florida ! So what will your viewers think of the helicopter incident 400 year from now.
Vast literature about VOC Batavia. Source: Godard ISBN 0 646 105 191 bought many years ago at the W.A. Martine Museum in Fremantle
Pieter and Gunvor Bergen Norway
Wish you a pleasant voyage.