30th March

Another early morning as we approached Muscat, the capital city of Oman.  Such is the humidity (95%), the difference in temperature between our air-conditioned Bridge and outside, the windows are covered in condensed water and we have to use the window-wipers to keep a modicum of clear view.

The Muscat approach

The Muscat approach

..and the dock, with Aries's pirouette before docking.

..and the dock, with Aries’s pirouette before docking.

Approaching the breakwaters

Approaching the breakwaters

I am alternating the ‘navigator’ role between the Navigation officers for arrivals and departures and thus it is our 2nd officer, Arie, whose turn it is to dock the ship.  We approach the harbour breakwaters and a tug wends its way out towards us, its purpose this morning is to carry the pilot to us. 

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He reaches the Bridge, a wizened old gentleman, his wrinkled face burned brown by the sun.  He shows little interest as I explain the morning’s maneuver and we proceed into the small harbour and its turning basin; we are going to swing and back down towards the berth, it has been a long time since we went port-side alongside and we are taking the opportunity to hire a cherry-picker, (extendable crane) to replace some parts on our port bridge-wing searchlight and do a fresh-water wash-down of our hull, which is covered in sand and salt.

Arie swings and then backs down, using joystick, his first time on it and does an admirable job of bringing her alongside, my heart-rate increases not one jot.  It is a busy day in Muscat’s harbour, 3 cruise ships, us, the Europa 2 and the Splendour of the Seas.  Combined with that are 3 Iranian warships on a goodwill visit, 2 cargo ships and the ever-present Royal yacht, so large that it would do nicely as a cruise ship.  Later, a U.S. warship arrives, the USS Sirocco, its berth is ‘boxed-in’ by containers as a security measure.  Later, while on the shuttle bus, we pass the Iranian vessels and I notice that their close-range weapons are cleared and at-the-ready, full belts of ammunition in the breech.

Iranian warships

Iranian warships, Europa 2 in the background

...at the ready.

…at the ready.

The Royal yacht

The Royal yacht, the ‘Al Said’.

After a de-brief of our docking and a scheduled drill, it is time for myself and this year’s ‘mob’, K1, K2 and Ivana, to board the provided shuttle-bus to town, the drop-off point being the Souk, (market), which does not bode well for me, however it should provide some photographic opportunities.

Sure enough, they do not manage to pass the first shop without visiting the interior, my worst fears are being realised and while I wait outside, I receive many humorous comments from passing guests.  I am not alone, I see several men waiting in a similar fashion outside other stalls, them, like me, have the patience of Job. 😕 

The first stop and posing outside.

The first stop and posing outside.

One of the many head-dresses that they tried on.

One of the many head-dresses that they tried on.

Frankincense burned everywhere, permeating the souk

Frankincense burned everywhere, permeating the souk

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These characters insisted on posing for a photo

These characters insisted on posing for a photo

The Omanis wear traditional garb.

The Omanis wear traditional garb.

Obviously haggling over price

Obviously haggling over price

The alleyways are narrow, with little passing space

The alleyways are narrow, with little passing space

The main road outside the souk, the harbour is the other side of the road.

The main road outside the souk, the harbour is the other side of the road.

 

...and looking theother way

…and looking the other way

Nevertheless, going through the souk at an average of 1 shop every 2 minutes provides time for me to take some photos.  The ‘mob’ is searching for head-wear for the evening’s ‘Arabian’ theme on board.  At a loss for them to find anything suitable, I suggest a frying pan, a wok, a fake helmet and even a fez, brave of me I know and if looks could whither, I’m dead.

We spend an hour or two in the winding alleyways of the souk, the mobs shopping-list by no means complete, nevertheless they are carrying bags full of heaven knows what.  Lunch beckons and we choose to go to a hotel which has been mentioned by several guests, the Al Bustan Palace, this lies on the coast, to the west of Muscat and involves a 20-minute taxi ride.  We are fortunate to find a driver who not only speaks good English but has a wonderful sense of humour and knowledge of the area. 

Our taxi driver

Our taxi driver

He takes us on a longer route with the intent of giving us some photo opportunities.  The coastal belt of Muscat has parks, green grass, date palms; this strip of land is in stark contrast to a few yards inland, where the harsh, dry cliffs and mountains are barren, many of the higher points reveal forts or watch-towers.

The Palace, Al Alam complex

The Palace, Al Alam complex

...and the fort which overlooks it. Al Jelali

…and the fort which overlooks it. Al Jelali

Watch-towers on the craggy peaks

Watch-towers on the craggy peaks

The hotel is magnificent and, as its name implies was once a palace.  We make our way to the beach-side restaurant, where we have a snack to tide us over, washed down, (in my case) by a cold beer.  Replete, we return to the foyer, where our driver, who promised to be back at the appointed time, was waiting for us and we returned to the shuttle bus pick-up point for our journey back to the ship.  Fortunately, there was a bus waiting, so no need to re-visit the souk, yes!  😎 

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Enjoying a cold beer

Enjoying a cold beer

..and the ladies enjoy a cocktail

..and the ladies enjoy a cocktail

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on the beach, dining table

on the beach, dining table

Sailing time and while we worked, the guests were enjoying the ‘Arabian’ theme sailaway, complete with authentic belly dancer.  The ladies made use of the decor before the party, just to practice of course.

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Hookah pipe at the ready

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Ivana multi-tasking, hookah and tambourine

Benito, another 2nd officer, took her out, no pilot boarded as he had asked, before he left in the morning, whether I required one for departure; no-brainer for that one and having left the berth and turned for the open sea, destination Salalah, another Omani port, 620 miles away by sea.  I leave you with my remaining photos.

Now merely for show, structures such as this were once used as lighthouses, a fire being lit inside.

Now merely for show, structures such as this were once used as lighthouses, a fire being lit inside. A watch-tower guards the entrance to the harbour.

Across the harbour, all available flat space is utilised.

Across the harbour, all available flat space is utilised.  Another watch-tower on the adjacent peak.

5 thoughts on “30th March”

  1. Fantastic report and pictures on your Muscat visit. We, too, have not had the opportunity to visit that area, but surely enjoyed reading and seeing it all through you. Wish we were there. Agree with Patricia – super pic of you and the beer (will print it and keep it on the fridge!). Look forward to your next blog. Love them!
    George & Jean in BC

    1. Hello Jean and George, I was tickled to see your reply post. We are booked to be on the 2017 WC – why don’t you join us. We won’t be Hosting this time – we will be ‘real’ passengers and we’ll get all the extra goodies and get to go on the Ensemble stuff without being the host!

      Sue and Jim (you remember us as your Ensemble Hosts on a couple HAL Grand Voyages and the 2012 WC)

  2. Ha, ha, this has to be your funniest post so far! I vote for the “wok” headgear myself. If you ever need a second job, I suggest you summit the “beer drinking” photo of you and apply for the James Bond role. Really!

    Sensational post from the charts to the photos!

  3. Thank you so much for the amazing report. For so many reasons I will never visit Oman, but now I feel like I have almost been there. By the way – Karen looked fabulous in the beaded hats. I love the look on her.

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