Tahiti is the largest island of the Windward group of French Polynesia. As with all these islands they were formed by volcanic activity and have coral reefs surrounding them. The latter part of our voyage towards Papeete had not been pleasant; 4 or 5 times a year, the islands are prone to coming under the influence of tropical depressions, they last 3 to 4 days and then pass, the area once more reverting to the paradise that is normally expected. It was during one of these unfortunate times that we arrived in the area.
We arrived off the port at 7:30 in the morning; driving rain squalls, wind and rough seas made the approach and docking more trying than is the norm. The entrance to Papeete harbour is through a gap in the surrounding reef, the gap being approximately 200 metres wide and so it was, after a long discussion with Marc, our pilot we decided to wait for a break in the wind. Losing some time, we took a ’round turn’, gauging wind speeds and direction before finally deciding that a ‘window of opportunity’ had arisen and we would ‘go for it’.
Tahiti overview
The approach to the harbour, our round turn being the small ‘loop’
One normally approaches port at a ‘sedate’ speed, however on this occasion we pushed our ‘greyhound’ up and made for the entrance at 12 knots, (13 mph, 21 kph); any slower and the wind would push us sideways towards the (non-too attractive) reef. Through the entrance, a turn to port and the opportunity to take just a little off the speed.
Our berth (right), the “Paul Gaugin” is on the berth to the north
Past the cargo berths, canoeists out for a Saturday paddle
Still being affected by the wind, we came in towards the berth ‘high’ and fast, allowing for it to drop us towards the berth under control, most of the power being applied to stop her ‘falling’ too quickly and slowing her down Finally, we took a deep breath, alongside and all fast.
The entrance, the turn and the ‘high’ approach, (the dotted line)
The weather was not kind to us throughout our stay, the rain came in a deluge, accompanied by higher winds; nevertheless, the guests were off in search of the famous Black pearls 🙂 and of course, going on tour. Greeting them was a traditional Tahitian group of ‘musicians’.
We are berthed almost in the city itself, a short walk to the markets and shops and while guests enjoy having their feet on dry land, we store provisions, and take fuel.
I stayed on board for the day, dealing with “affairs of state”, however we went ashore in the evening, having been invited for a wonderful Chinese meal, our companions being high-ranking officials and, surprisingly, the President of Tahiti. The meal was delicious and the conversation entertaining.
At 5 a.m. on Sunday morning, we were due to sail, again the weather gods were against us, blustery winds and rain which put Niagara Falls to shame and, prudence prevailing, we waited, waiting for daylight, cessation of rain and a drop in the wind, (not necessarily in that order 🙂 ). It was nearer to 6 a.m. that we departed; a turn though 180° off the berth and then ‘pedal to the metal’ again, speed being our friend and transiting the pesky reef entrance once more. We were bound for the idyllic island of Moorea, the weather though was hardly idyllic, in fact the conditions had become worse during our stay in port, the seas and wind higher. Moorea was just a short ‘hop’ away and again, involved a narrow reef entrance and anchoring in a bay. Off the island it was apparent that this was not a day to try that entrance and besides, anchoring in a bay, open to the weather was not ‘tendering’ weather.
Somewhere in this lies Moorea!
After some calls to those on the island, none of them expecting improvement, I cancelled and headed for Bora Bora, 130 miles away. More rough seas, wind and rain, there was a glimmer of hope though; the forecast predicted the wind easing later in the evening. Off the west coast of Bora Bora, was it my imagination? Was the wind easing? Again, a reef transit is required, although this one is more narrow and shallower, (as we went in 3.5m or 10 feet under the keel). The anchorage ‘inside’ looked positively tempting and the wind, although strong, was coming from astern of us and not on our beam. Through we go………
Bora Bora from a distance
The reef passage, the buoys marking the channel can be seen if one opens a larger version in a new tab
Our electronic chart; top left the entrance through the reef, our anchorage position centre; the brown is land, the light blue reef.
Peace, perfect peace. No waves, little wind and tender service can begin, some guests and crew enjoying an evening ashore, whilst others stay on board and enjoy the amenities. I tried my best to take a photo of the moon above the volcano..some moderate success, although thin cloud spoiled the attempt…..
Next morning, in glorious sunshine and 85F/ 30C temperatures, guest pile ashore. Our tender pier is in Vaitepe
Any tour to do with the ‘water’ are popular, why wouldn’t they be in such gloriously turquoise sea? Us? We’re off to the same hotel that we’ve had the privilege of visiting for the past 3 years, the St. Regis. Before we do so, there is an urgent need to shop, straight off the tender and into the market with scarcely a breath…. Actually, I had forgotten to pack my swimming trunks, so the General store beckoned for me, camera handy as we strolled along the narrow road, dodging traffic as we did so.
Scooters for hire
Vaitepe from the anchorage
A 25-minute drive to the boathouse to which the ‘hotel’ boats call, (the hotels are on the outer reefs) and we’re on our way.
Waiting at the boathouse
The tender, in this case, this one carries ‘staff’, but it was available for us too
The magnificent vista astern
We arrive
Refreshments……
A wonderful relaxing day and back to the ship. Guests are tired and happy, a wonderful stay. I write as we make our way towards Nuku’alofa, Tonga. Tonight, we put our clocks forward by 1 day, we’ll go to bed on the 19th and wake up on the 21st, a nice long sleep?? 🙂
